Bahrain to Heathrow [Day 22]

No more solo adventures

We finally board the Airbus A330 for London Heathrow on time and take to our seats. I was squeezed in the centre aisle between James and Colin with Deborah in the end seat. Promptly all three fall asleep leaving me to play with the entertainment console and screen in front of me.

I discover about 20 channels of various programmes and end up watching something about historic F1... with Jackie Stewart, Niki Lauda and others. A interesting journey back into time watching some of these old Grand Prix that I remember so well.

The flight was pretty uneventful and I manage to sleep most of the way. I wake just in time for dinner - though many were still asleep and missed the meal altogether. This was a much better fare and I enjoy it immensely.

Arriving at Heathrow, I get excited about meeting the family again. I hurry out to baggage reclaim, pick up my holdall on my shoulder with rucksack on my back, say goodbye to each of the team and wander out into arrivals. My wife and son were waiting for me and much emotion is displayed with hugs all round... and shock at my gaunt look.

My 'once in a lifetime' adventure is finally over.

Memorial at Pheriche to all those

lost on Everest (courtesy of Harriet)

Everest Base Camp (courtesy of Harriet)

Extracts of the route from Everest Base Camp Map

Lukla to Monjo

Monjo to Namche

Namche to Tengboche

Tengboche to Pheriche & Dingboche

Trek D Participants

• Austin, Colin
• Bottomley, Nigel
• Bulmer, Felicity
• Gallally, James
• Hall, Geoff
• Henker, Ralf
• Innes, Stuart
• Jacobs, Dennis
• Jonas, Max
• Kemp, Harriet
• Laugharne, Debbie [Expedition Leader]
• Lee, Stewart
• Lew-Gor, Simione
• Payne, Mike
• Saddler, Julia
• Selzer, Nikolaus
• Williams, Nadia

http://www.xtreme-everest.co.uk/

http://www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk/

Kathmandu to Bahrain [Day 21]

No more tests

Waking early, we have the final physical tests before handing in our research diaries.

This morning my results were:
Resting - O2 95; HR 70; BR 9.  BP 146/88; 128/84; 127/83.  After exercise - O2 94; HR 123; BR 13.

I return the completed diary to the XE staff and question them over how my data would be utilised, particularly as my trek had differed somewhat from those of my colleagues on Trek D. I was told in no uncertain terms that my data would be amalgamated with all the other statistics after which it would all be analysed.

A contribution to medical research was a major driver for me when deciding to come on this expedition, especially that relating to intensive care, so I feel quite comforted in the knowledge that my data won't be discarded as 'invalid'.

Leaving the Summit Hotel for the last time, the heavens open and the rain pours down. Perhaps Kathmandu is shedding tears for our departure?

We get on the minibus, but as it navigates the narrow streets outside the hotel, we manage to get stuck in a 'traffic jam'. The road is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass and the stubborn nature of Nepali drivers mean that often an impasse is reached, neither party moving forwards or backwards.

Last day... and rain

We are there for about 25 minutes, honking horns and moving backwards and forwards a couple of feet to let traffic through, with no real intent at reaching a resolution. Everybody is tense, not wishing to miss our flight. I feel like jumping out to direct the traffic, as the solution seems so obvious.

The humidity levels are rising in the bus and so are tempers... but the experienced Nepal travellers have seen it all before and are quite chilled about it. Finally, the main instigator, a tanker driver, sees the obvious solution and pulls out of the way down a side road, freeing up the situation.

We arrive at Kathmandu Airport and there is the usual scrummage to check holdalls in for weighing. Deborah decides to do this as a group, so as to offset any potential baggage excess - but chaos reigns after someone loses their boarding ticket. It is far easier to check in your own luggage, so there is individual responsibility. If there is excess baggage to pay, then that individual settles up.

My rucksack is given a cursory examination at security and I am released through for boarding. The flight is delayed slightly due to a missing passenger (perhaps the one with the missing boarding ticket), but within half an hour we are on our way, turbulence included.

The plane for this part of the flight is a Boeing 767-300 Gulf Traveller seating 257 in Economy Class. The flight is nothing spectacular and I sleep most of the way, apart from being wakened for lunch. A spicy rice and chicken dish, with a lychee and a carrot/cucumber mix. I don't find this appetising at all, leaving most of it on the plate. Hopefully the next flight meal will be better.

We arrive at Bahrain pretty much on time, but now have a six hour wait for our next flight at 0130hrs tomorrow morning. After the experience of sitting around in departures for an extensive period on our way out, we decide to pay the extra and go into the Executive Lounge.

For 27US$ this is good value. Reclining leather chairs, free food and drink, newspapers to read etc. We take full advantage of the facilities and the time passes quickly. I try to send a text message to the family, but my Sony Ericsson K700i battery is dead. I tried to source a charger, to no avail.

Executive Lounge, Bahrain (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Impetuously, I decide to go down to Duty Free to see if I can buy a replacement charger, but none are compatible. I end up buying a new Sony Ericsson Z710i in duty free using my credit card. I settle down to charge it up in the Executive Lounge and attempt to send a message, but it won't send. By the time I find out what the problem was, time had run out and I was due on board.

So much for my 'great idea'.

Lukla to Sinara to Kathmandu [Day 20]

Early flight out

I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.

My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.

Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.

The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.

We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.

Lukla Airport

Our flight awaits

Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.

The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).

As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.

I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!

We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.

Sinara Airfield (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Every bit of shade helps

There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.



Pre-flight checks

After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.

I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).

As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.

Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.

There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.

Now, sitting here in my underwear, I am waiting for Mike to finish his ablutions so that I can have my own shower and shave. It is so nice to be back in civilisation again.

The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.

I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.

Summit Hotel

Gardens

I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.

Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.

I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!

Thamel

I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?

We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.

The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.

Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.

A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.

We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:

"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."

After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.

Namche to Lukla [Day 19]

Long haul to Lukla

Back with my Trek D colleagues, the physical testing regime continues. My results today are:
Resting - O2 89; HR 67; BR 11.  BP 149/81; 133/83; 138/79.  After exercise: O2 88; HR 116; BR 16.

I am pleased to leave Namche behind, having been based there for a few days now. I sense a slightly muted 'goodbye' from the XE permanent staff as we departed - maybe the social dynamics with other trek groups were better.

We have a lovely trek out this morning. I have a good chat with Dawa (our guide) about his education and family. I also enjoy the company of Deborah (Trek Leader) talking about climbing, the management of funds as trek leader and the general group dynamics after I was left behind at Pheriche.

If you are interested in finding out more about her background.: www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk 

Astonishing loads

Ice cold waters

Rest stop for porters

My legs are slightly sore from not having put Factor 50 on yesterday. I start off with shorts this morning, but as the weather starts to get blustery, drizzly and cloudy, I fasten the bottoms back on my trousers.

We are now at Phakding waiting for lunch. The weather has changed again, the sunshine is beating down and we are drinking lemon teas, white/black coffees and normal tea. This place is about halfway between Namche and Lukla. It is noticeable there are less photos being taken now we are on the way down.

Relaxing in the warmth of the sun

Weary trekkers

I am feeling introspective today. Tomorrow is the anniversary of Sam's death (our first grandson). His passing is one of the main reasons for me being on this trip. I cannot believe it is a year since my family were going through those horrendous few days.

It was nice therefore to have the company of an extra companion for most of the day - a very friendly dog. He joined the group at Namche and walked virtually all the way to Lukla. He did not appear to be a stray, as his coat was in superb condition. He sits with me at most of the rest stops while I fuss him and feed him titbits. As we approach Lukla, he seems to know this is his limit and turns back to make the journey home, wherever that was. He was a nice interlude to my otherwise dark thoughts.

Welcome companion

I really hope the research gained from my difficult ascent and the expedition as a whole helps those Intensive Care Units and Special Baby Care Units in the UK. The doctors who were caring for me advise that my results will still be valid, despite me not having achieved the height of Base Camp and the medication taken.

Dawa and Llakpa

It has been a very hot, sweaty day and a long haul into Lukla. Walking down the main 'street' of Lukla, it is amazing how much you miss on the way out. There were far more shops/outlets than I remember. Tunnel vision towards the mountains I suppose.

Finally, we arrive at the Eco Paradise Hotel. What a lovely hostelry for the very last night in the Khumbu. The lady owner not only looks after the day-to-day running of the hotel, she is also an air traffic controller at Lukla and a well respected member of the community.

Eco Paradise Hotel

We have a enjoyable evening. A couple of beers with good food and terrific company. I share the contents of my hip flask with our sirdar and porters and toast their unswerving dedication to our group throughout the trek. Excellent service indeed.

I am billeted in a triple-bed room, with Mike and Sim, both lovely blokes. No snoring - sheer bliss.

Tengboche to Namche [Day 18]

Getting stronger and stronger

I have another good sleep. This morning I actually find a sit-down loo in Tengboche (a rare commodity). On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes.

There is a strenuous ascent through Khumjung to the Everest View Hotel. A number of people start to drop behind and we arrive in fragmented groups.

Toiling up the slope

One of our guides with Mike (on the right)

Dawa - one of our guides

Arduous path to the Tengboche Monastery (Centre)

Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and sit chatting, recovering from the rigours of the day.

Before we leave for Namche, there is the usual problem with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill, exacerbated by the fact many are running short of NR. 

Everest View Hotel

After the bill is paid, we descend the mountain side into Namche. We then have to climb up the numerous steps to the Sherwi Khangba lodge.

It has been a very hot and humid day, so if this continues into tomorrow, I think I will trek out in my shorts. It is three days since I have washed and showered properly, considerably more for my Trek D colleagues following their ascent to Base Camp. I therefore anticipate there will some competition for the Namche showers tonight. I will leave my shower until others have taken theirs.

I must also check set aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR, leaving me with 700NR and £60 to get me home.

Nice image of the Namche 'bowl'

I enjoy my shower as hot water sluices away the day's filth. I feel like a new man dressed in clean clothes. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.

No doubt the dynamics will be different with Trek D. I'm not interested in drinking alcohol tonight, nor do I wish to participate in any dance routines. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day walking to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.

The evening is as expected. An entertainment evening of drink and Ceroc dancing. It is nice that this has been arranged as a farewell 'party' by the permanent XE staff at Namche, but I believe our group would have been just as content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed.

Mike and I leave around 2100hrs, although we were encouraged to stay the course. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.

We will be up early tomorrow. 0500hrs to watch the sun up on Everest, testing at 0600hrs, with breakfast at 0630hrs and away by 0700hrs.

Night night.

Namche to Tengboche and beyond [Day 17]

Meeting up with Trek D

I wake at 0425hrs having gone to bed at 2000hrs. I am excited at the prospect of trekking back up the trail to meet my team.

I get downstairs too early for breakfast and chat with the sirdar and porters of Trek G. The sirdar is a very experienced climber and has accompanied Alan Hinks on expeditions. One of his porters (Husan Sunawar) exchanges email addresses with me so we can keep in touch once I return to the UK.

My thoughts wander back to home, to my wife and family. It will be strange to get back to normality. I will have things to catch up on... to get back on my computer, read and answer my emails, sort out my finances and continue renovation work on our cottage. I will also need to sort out my Xtreme Everest photos, write up my blog and plan my next trip (the Crib Goch ridge walk on Snowdon with my son). So many good positive things to look forward to, but for now I need to pack my rucksack and get on the trail after breakfast.

I have my normal diet of porridge, omelette on toast and lemon tea and finish before Trek G come down for breakfast. I return to my room to pack my rucksack with the essentials. I pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, waterproofs, medical kit and extra layers... fill my water bottle, use the loo and then leave a note pinned to my holdall of my route, plans and timings. I lock the room, pocket the key and walk out of the lodge.

I wander past the crashed helicopter, up the steps and out through the entrance arch to the lodge grounds. There are a number of locals around as I head through the narrow alleyways leading to the open hillside and the trail to Tengboche.

I set out at a good pace and it is great being on my own again. I find that when trekking alone there is a sense of freedom. Many of the porters carrying loads are more inclined to stop and chat. The locals carry huge burdens up the mountain to supply the lodges with goods and materials.

Ideal resting place

Lovely walk through the forest

This is the main highway to get goods up the trekking trail in support of the climbing industry. Helicopters can be used, but this form of transportation is so much more expensive. I suspect only the very wealthy expeditionary forces can use this as a norm. It's not just adults that act as porters - there are children, perhaps as young as twelve, carrying massive loads too. Some of the sights defy explanation, but I'll try.

One particular guy is carrying four sheets of thick ply roped together. Each sheet must be 6' x 3' x 0.5" and the weight immense. I would have difficulty lifting just one sheet... and yet here he is with this load suspended by a band around his forehead. His tendons and muscles are straining with the weight as he walks... in flip flops... heading for Tengboche and beyond. The weight must have been well in excess of 60kg!

With my lightweight pack I continue to romp along, the route and places now very familiar. I take more photos of Everest and particularly of Ama Dablam, and soon arrive at the base of the climb up to Tengboche. I make sure I have a rest at the bottom, taking the opportunity to use the loo, get fluids inside me and refuel with a Mars Bar.

The temperature has risen and it is still only mid-morning. The trail up to Tengboche snakes its way, ever upwards. The dust is powder dry, coating my boots and filling my nostrils. I keep resting where I can in the shade to take on more liquid. I am soaked in sweat.

The porters also take regular rests. There seem to be convenient points where there are ledges in the stone walls, so they can lean their loads without having to remove them. I am in awe of the carrying ability and stamina. It is all I can do to keep going uphill, placing one leg after another... and all I am carrying is a measly rucksack.

There is another porter who has a towering basket. It is full of crates of San Miguel beer, with boxes of confectionery beneath. He is toiling upward ever so slowly, his brow furrowed with the weight and strain of carrying. Someone else has a carcass of some meat or other on his back, open to the elements, with flies buzzing around in the heat.

With great relief I finally top out at Tengboche - it is just 1045hrs having set out from Namche at 0745hrs.

Nice to stop and chat

I am still feeling strong and the weather is excellent, so decide to push on through Deboche to head up to Pangboche. I know permission for this has not been granted for this extension. However, I consider the risk low. In any case, Trek D will be descending down the trail, so we will bump into each other sooner or later.

This section of the trail is delightful... much of it through colourful rhododendron forests, high above the Dudh Kosi.

Rhododendron trail

Just after Deboche, I meet one of the Trek D porters. He recognises me instantly and comes over to give me a hug. He seems genuinely pleased to see me, and me him. This makes me feel a million dollars. I discover the team are about an hour away. This gives me plenty of time to head further up the trail, as they are descending from Dingboche.

I arrive at the distinctive bridge below Pangboche. This is not a hawser suspension bridge like most, but is constructed out of scaffolding tube. I arrive at the archway which welcomes the trekker to Upper and Lower Pangboche. Unsure as to which route Trek D would have taken, I decide to wait on an outcrop of rock, high above the valley.

Shortly, a small group of porters ascending the trail stop for a rest. I offer them some of my biscuits and soon the whole packet has been devoured. The porters are chatting between themselves and seem to be looking at my rucksack. I discover they are laughing at the solar panel and my GPS fastened to the side. I'm sure this causes them great amusement, as it is really not that difficult to follow the trail. Certainly not for those who use this route regularly to transport goods ever higher with nothing more than flip flops, trousers, shirt and jacket.

It's not long before the porter group continue leaving me on my own again. I have a great view up towards Ama Dablam, my favourite mountain. Ama Dablam means 'mother’s necklace' because the long ridges on each side of the mountain are like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam (a traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods) worn by Sherpa women.

Waiting for Trek D to arrive

Ama Dablam

The sun is beating down and I have removed my rucksack to settle down to wait for Trek D to arrive. Lying on my back, enjoying the warmth, I hear bells clanking in the distance. These warn anyone on the trail to get out of the way. The yaks soon come into view, heavily loaded with blue Jagged Globe expedition bags.

I get up and go to speak with our yak herder who grins in recognition. She tells me the group are not far away. It's not long before I recognise Deborah's (Trek Leader) yellow rucksack bobbing down the hill.

The group seemed surprised to see me, but with many hugs and handshakes, I am back in the womb of my team again. Two of the group (Dennis and Nadia) have taken an extension to their trekking holiday, so are no longer with us.

Mike comes over to greet me. It is great to have his company again and I am eager to hear of their experience at Base Camp. We walk back to Tengboche chatting and catching up with the news. I also have to fill them in about what has happened to me since being left at Pheriche.

Many have had an uncomfortable time at EBC, especially with the effects of altitude and cold. A number have bad coughs. It is clear they would not have wished to have missed it. On the other hand they wouldn't want to repeat the experience. I don't think they are saying this just for my benefit. I remember looking at Trek C after they had arrived at Dingboche and thinking how drained they looked. Trek D now have that similar gaunt look.

I am talking to Llakpa (our Sirdar) climbing the hill out of Deboche, when we are surprised by three horses thundering downhill around a corner of the trail. One poor animal has his leg caught up in a saddle that has slipped. We only just manage to leap out of the way as they crash into the undergrowth near a steep precipice. Fortunately, they manage to regain the trail, but are heading straight for the rest of our group.

We shout out warnings before a breathless monk comes into view. He continues running after his wayward mounts.

Arriving back at Tengboche for the fourth time (for me), it is incredible how a place becomes very familiar. Mike decides to billet with me again. After dumping our bags in our allocated room, I ask him if he would like to walk up the ridge to the prayer flags.

I mention I had found it quite spiritual. In the event I had left my scarf tied to a bush and said a prayer for the health and happiness of my family. Mike offers to say some words in prayer for me too, but I kindly decline and he takes a photo of me instead. 

Prayer flag ridge at Tengboche

Namche [Day 16]

Freedom

I have another great sleep - from about 2045hrs right through to 0530hrs. It is nice to have a good wash in the morning, but then I struggle as to what to put on. The majority of my stuff is filthy and smelly. A breakfast of porridge, omelette on toast, a hot chocolate and hot lemon. It is great to have my appetite back.

I intend to walk into Namche today, have a good sort out of my holdall and perhaps have a shave and shower. I will then make sure I have everything packed and ready for my trek up to Tengboche.

Down in Namche, I visit a number of shops. I buy a scarf to keep the sun off my neck and a couple of mini karabiners. One will be useful for a safety loop on my camera bag; the other to fasten my water bottle to my rucksack.

Whilst wandering around the village, I see a little child peeking out of a doorway at me. There was no-one to ask if I could snap the picture (as I would normally do), so I just clicked the shutter. I find photographs a useful aid to memory. It is quite cool in the early morning, but the temperature soon rises. It is now 1015hrs.

I am really looking forward to heading back up to Tengboche tomorrow to meet my colleagues from Trek D. As I will have to leave my holdall behind, I must remember to take my room key with me to keep it secure. I will leave a note of my route and intentions too. I don't want Trek G's porters mistakenly removing my kit.

Inquisitive child

Entrance to Namche

Wash time

When I return to the lodge I ask for a bowl of hot water to shave off my beard. It takes two shaves to clear all the growth. As I am usually clean shaven in my day-to-day life, I feel so much better now.

Sitting here in my room writing my diary, flies are buzzing in through the window, attracted by the soiled toilet tissue in the bin beside the loo. I deny them access by shutting the door of the en-suite. I then decide it will be nicer to sit in the sunshine outside to read my book. However, the cold wind whipping around the front of the lodge soon has me scurrying inside again.

I decide to walk some way up the trail to the Norgay Tenzing Chorten. This is located in a fantastic spot with views up towards the Everest range. Magnificent. Studying the inscription on the commemorative plate, some moron has decided to deface it. What motivates a person to do this?

Route to Tenzing Norgay Chorten

Great view of the Everest range

I get the opportunity to speak with a few people from Trek G today. I tell them about my walk to Thamo and how delightful it was. Some choose to go out on an acclimatisation walk on this route. On their return they seek me out to thank me as they had really enjoyed the trip.

The pool table is empty, so I have a knock about with the balls to kill some time. Soon bored, I wander back into Namche again to take more photos of village life. I buy another litre of water and some chocolate.

On the walk back up to the lodge, I see an internet café and pop in to send a final email to my wife before our flight back to Kathmandu. I discover this internet has a fast satellite link, yet was cheaper than the connection at the lodge. I wish I had known about this before!

Back at the lodge, I go to the lounge and buy a hot chocolate, settling down to update my diary. Two blokes from Trek G are there with two mini radio-controlled helicopters. I am told their intention is to fly them at each acclimatisation stop to see what the effects of altitude are on lift. The machines whirr into life and buzz around the ceiling awhile before crashing into each other and spiralling to the floor.

The young Nepali woman serving afternoon drinks watches the incident and laughs, as do I. She wanders over to me, offering a handful of cashew nuts and sits down for a chat. Such a friendly response and a lovely gesture.

I remain in the lounge to have the evening meal, after which I feel tired. I retire to my room at 2000hrs to rest before tomorrow's exertions.

Namche to Thamo and return [Day 15]

Trek C depart

I wake early with Trek C. The dormitory comes alive at 0530hrs with the usual type of lads banter. My bag was lovely and warm and it was tempting to stay put, but I really wanted to say 'goodbye' to the team who had welcomed me so openly. The 'dorm' will feel strangely empty when they depart.

Yaks loaded and ready

Farewell to Trek C

I go outside to say my goodbyes to Trek C - my surrogate family for the last few days. I mingle with them chatting... we shake hands, hug, take the obligatory group photo and go our separate ways.

The yaks and their loads saunter off up the steps and through the arch. Trek C wander off too, waving their trek poles in return of the many waves from the few that are staying behind.

Peace returns to the lodge  and I am all alone again amongst the remnants of unfamiliar trekking groups. It is a good job I am quite independent and sure of my own company, otherwise it would be a very lonely experience.

Well, let's get sorted for today. I must go and get breakfast... then have a wash. I better see what my accommodation arrangements are as well. I'm sure they won't want me in the large dorm on my own, which is a shame as it is a nice airy room.

I feel a more positive attitude emerging to offset my previous disappointment. In fact, I am really looking forward to doing some exploring on my own. The highlight will be rejoining my Trek D colleagues... but I am also looking forward to trekking over to Thamo.

I am allocated Room 106 for the rest of my stay. I move my stuff from the dormitory and settle down to sort everything out for the day. This room overlooks the front of the lodge and has an en-suite sit down loo. Luxury!

I wander downstairs to set off for Thamo (3,493 metres).

Walk to Thamo

Climb out of Namche

Quarry above Namche

Trail from the quarry

It is a wonderful morning and I take a different route over the ridge to the quarry. By following the contours, I manage to locate a trail I recognise from our acclimatisation walk and drop down through the rhododendron forest, which is festooned with flowers. Beautiful.

A tiny wren-like bird follows me from bush to bush as I whistle similar sounds to his call - he is only a couple of feet away, peering at me from behind the foliage.

Exotic mani stone

Sagarmatha National Park

Heading for the Chorten in the distance

Down to the river

River crossing

The noise of the river gets louder and louder as I descend to the valley floor. The three logs across the milky white gush of water able to be navigated with ease. On the opposite bank, a burnt patch of earth is evidence of where the porters stop for rest, as we had seen on our acclimatisation walk with Trek D. It seems many days ago now.

I soon pass the teashop where we originally turned around and continue up the hill on new ground. I remember how, if we upped the pace just ever so slightly, we would end up panting and out of breath in no time. No such problem now as I romp up the steep path - just shows how one acclimatises to ones surroundings. I feel in absolutely A1 condition... and fitter than I have done for ages.

Arriving at the top of the rise, I turn the corner to see a great scar in the landscape where the river has carved its way into the mountain. A wide expanse of rock where the river has split into many routes, finding its own way down the valley, to merge into one again at the bottom. I look further ahead up the mountain... and there nestled in the hillside is Thamo.

Thamo - nestling in the hillside

It seems so close and yet I discover it takes another half-hour before I walk up the path into the village. I pass a tiny hydro-power station built by the Austrian Government, the waterfalls from the hillside being swallowed into the turbines. Prayer flags bedeck the trees as the water tinkles and sparkles in the sunlight. I stand there for a good five minutes mesmerised.

Mani stones and prayers

Austrian NGO-funded hydro-power project

No competition - just stand aside and let them through

Delightful village

Wandering up between the little houses, I greet the locals with the usual 'Namaste' (meaning 'I salute the divine within you', but is used as both Hello and Goodbye). I take care to approach the mani stones and Chortens in the right way, going around them on the left side to ensure the prayers are sent up the mountain correctly. A basic respect for another culture.

The village is a riot of colour, not only from the prayer flags, but the different coloured roofs of the huts and lodges. Trying to locate the Nunnery, I glance higher up the mountain. Often these buildings are at the top of the village in the highest vantage point and I locate what seems to be a likely candidate. I make a beeline for it and in the event have to wind my way up a path between bleached white stone walls. Steep steps lead me to a wooden gate and a sign indicating the Khari Nunnery.

Khari Nunnery

A new prayer hall under construction

I put my jacket on to respectfully cover my arms and enter the complex. I pass what seems to be a building under construction and am met by a shaven-headed Tibetan lady in purple floor length robes. She beckons me down some steps towards the sound of chanting. I discover numerous discarded pairs of sandals, flip flops and shoes and sit down to remove my own footwear. Although I am only a UK size 7, my boots look massive in comparison.

Approaching a decorated curtain over a hidden doorway, the chanting gets louder - pulling this to one side reveals a brightly decorated prayer hall, with 20/25 robed nuns sitting cross-legged, chanting mantras, ringing bells and clashing cymbals. I am offered a seat on the floor at the head of the service. A prayer mat is brought for me and I adopt the same cross-legged posture as the nuns, so as not to offend by showing the soles of my feet. I am given a cup of yak tea, which I sip quietly... this has quite a sour taste, but isn't unpleasant.

Listening with my eyes closed for some of the time, I feel very relaxed. The rhythm of the mantras become soporific... really quite calming. I somehow feel at peace and 'right' with the world.

I have a good look around at what the nuns were doing. Each have a part to play in the service, either by blowing into a conch shell, or ringing a bell, or starting up a mantra. At times they rest and sip their own tea... and then start up again.

Not knowing how long the service is to last, I finish my tea, place a 200NR donation in the collection box, bow my head with my hands together, utter 'Namaste', rise gently and leave through the curtain. I put my boots back on and depart feeling enlightened.

Lower down the hill towards the village, I stop at a little stall to buy a ringing bowl as a memory of my remarkable trip to the nunnery - 700NR, less than £7. I am now sitting in the courtyard of a local shop writing up my diary, having purchased a litre of water and a Mars bar for my return journey.

The owner seems fascinated by my writing... and a cow has just wandered down the path and is leaning over the low wall behind me, watching me drink from my water bottle.

I walk back through the village and set off along the trail at a good pace. I am feeling extremely strong and romp along. As I go over the log bridge for the second time today, I take an alternative path back to Namche, much higher on the mountainside. This seems to be newly-constructed and the flora and fauna are fantastic. Tiny ice-blue mountain Iris are dotted around in flower - beautiful. I take a couple of photos on self-timer to remind myself of the wonderful day I have experienced... at one point nearly tripping in my rush to get into position.

Heading out of the village again

Back at the river crossing - no yaks this time

Alternative path back to Namche

Farmstead above Namche

Flora

and fauna

Namche again

I arrive back in Namche at 1530hrs and end up chatting to another Brit who is trekking to Everest Base Camp on his own. He had taken the wrong turning and ended up in Thamo (completely the wrong valley).

I therefore point him in the right direction, advising that it is about a three-hour walk to Tengboche, with a hard climb at the end. I suggested he might get a lodge lower down and tackle the climb in the morning, particularly in view of his lengthy diversion today. I don't know whether he heeds my advice but off he trots on the correct route at last.

I have a quick check of the cash in my wallet: 300NR (about £3); 110 US$ (about £55) and 60 UK£. This should be enough to last me for the remainder of the trek.

Medical Lab at Namche

I report to the Med Centre to say I am back safe from my trip to Thamo. I chat with the duty doctor and explain how well I am feeling. As a result, my request to walk up to meet Trek D is granted, but it is conditional on accompanying Trek G, who will be leaving for Deboche the same day.

Unfortunately, I have not really bonded with the members of Trek G, so don't really want to be 'shackled' to them. I will therefore see if the Trek G leader approaches me to make arrangements. If he doesn't, I will set off in advance of the group, knowing that if anything untoward happens en-route, I can just sit it out and wait to be 'swept up'.

I return to my room where I start to plan for the walk to meet up with Trek D. It will be necessary to leave my main holdall in Room 106 whilst I head off up the trail... but will still need a certain amount of kit to cover all eventualities.

I will pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, med kit and put in some extra layers and waterproofs just in case I am caught out with the weather. It normally starts quite cool and then quickly heats up, if previous days are anything to go by. With the steep climb to Tengboche, I will be sweating buckets, so must take enough fluids with me. There is no hurry though to get it all sorted, as I still have one spare day to do all my admin, so decide to leave it for tomorrow.

I bump into another doctor on the permanent staff (Goli) - she invites me to a viewing of 'Everest' the Imax movie after tea. In the event, the film shows promise, but the DVD keeps skipping, then there is a power cut. Furthermore, only Trek G were in attendance and I find myself having to explain who I am and why I am in Namche when my own group (Trek D) are much further up the trail, so decide to return to the saloon for a bedtime drink.

Dr Jo notices me sitting on my own drinking my hot chocolate, and takes the opportunity to sidle over. She has my Med Reports on the USB drive and passes them back to me. This now incorporates a report for Deborah (my Trek D Leader), with other copies for the Kathmandu Med Centre and my own Practitioner.

I retire to bed and read my Med Reports - no surprises there.