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Welcome to Nepal

Monday 30 April 2007

Namche to Lukla [Day 19]

Long haul to Lukla

Back to the morning tests. My results are:
Resting - O2 89; HR 67; BR 11.  BP 149/81; 133/83; 138/79.  After exercise: O2 88; HR 116; BR 16.

I am pleased to leave Namche behind, having been based there for quite a few days. It seems a slightly muted 'goodbye' from the XE permanent staff as we departed - maybe the social dynamics with other trek groups were better.

We have a lovely trek out this morning - I have a good chat with Dawa (our guide) about his education and family. I also enjoy the company of Deborah (Trek Leader) talking about different climbing techniques, the management of funds as trek leader and general 'goings on' in the group after I was left behind at Pheriche.

I have Deborah's website address: www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk if you are interested in finding out more about her background.

Astonishing loads

Ice cold waters

Rest stop for porters

My legs are slightly sore from not having put Factor 50 on yesterday. I start off with shorts this morning, but as the weather starts to get blustery, drizzly and cloudy, I fasten the bottoms back on my trousers.

We are now at Phakding waiting for lunch. The weather has changed again, the sunshine is beating down and we are drinking lemon teas, white/black coffees and normal tea. This place is about halfway in distance to Lukla.

It is noticeable there are less photos being taken now we are on the way down.

Relaxing in the warmth of the sun

Weary trekkers

I am feeling quite down today... as tomorrow is the anniversary of Sam's death... one of the main reasons for me being on this trip. I cannot believe it is a year since my family were going through those horrendous few days.

It was nice therefore to have the company of an extra companion for most of the day - a very friendly dog. Joining us at Namche, he walks virtually all the way with us to Lukla. He did not appear to be a stray, as his coat was in superb condition. He sits down with me at most of the rest stops while I fuss him and feed him titbits. As we approach Lukla, he seems to know this is his limit and he turns back to make the journey home, wherever that was. He was a nice interlude to my otherwise dark thoughts.

Welcome companion

I really hope the research gained from my difficult ascent and the expedition as a whole really bears fruit for Intensive Care Units. According to the doctors who were caring for me... and those in the team... they do say my results will still be valid. If everyone reached EBC without any issues at all, the data wouldn't be as useful. I do hope the Xtreme-Everest research will also benefit Special Baby Care Units around the UK too.


Dawa and Llakpa

It has been a very hot, sweaty day... and a long haul into Lukla. Walking down the main 'street' of Lukla, it is amazing how much you overlook on the way out. There were far more shops/outlets than I remember. Tunnel vision towards the mountains... that is what I must have had when I walked in.

We come to the Eco Paradise Hotel. What a lovely hostelry for the very last night in the Khumbu. The lady owner not only looks after the day-to-day running of the hotel, she is also an air traffic controller and a well respected member of the community.


Eco Paradise Hotel


We have a enjoyable evening - a couple of beers, nice food and terrific company. I empty my hip flask into the Sirdar's and porter's glasses as a toast to their unswerving assistance throughout the trek. Excellent service.

I am in a triple-bed room... with Mike and Sim, both lovely blokes... and no snoring... sheer bliss.

Sunday 29 April 2007

Tengboche to Namche [Day 18]

Getting stronger and stronger

I have yet another good night - and this morning actually find a sit down loo before I leave Tengboche (a rare commodity).

On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes. We finish with a hard climb through Khumjung to the Everest View Hotel. This is where people start to suffer and drop off towards the back of the group. I don't think my fellow trekkers expected this slight diversion before Namche... thinking they would just drop down into the village. I get the impression some were none too pleased at the extra effort required.

Toiling up the slope

One of our guides with Mike (on the right)

Dawa - one of our guides

Arduous path to the Tengboche Monastery (Centre)

Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and we sit awhile recovering from the rigour of the days walk.

There is the usual issue with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill... and this is exacerbated by the fact we are all running rather short of NR. Rumour is circulating that the permanent medical staff from Namche (who just happen to arrive at the hotel at the same time as us), manage to incorporate their drinks on our bill.

Everest View Hotel

After a good rest, we descend down the mountain side into Namche and then climb up to the Sherwi Khangba. It has been very hot and humid today, so if it is nice again tomorrow I think I will trek out in my shorts. It is three days since I have washed and showered properly... and there is likely to be a fair bit of competition for the Namche showers. My fellow trekkers have all been without since before EBC, so I will leave my shower until later - it's only right they take precedence.

I must also check to see if I have put aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR... but then I'll only have about 700NR and £60 to get me home.

Nice image of the Namche 'bowl'

I really need a shower. Nice, hot water sluicing away the previous days filth. Clean clothes and I feel like a new man. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.

I don't think the dynamics will be the same with Trek D though. Maybe it's just me, as I'm not one to be railroaded into things? Furthermore I'm really not interested in the type of dance routine that was suggested for Trek C (and I suspect it's going to be something similar).  Tomorrow is a hard days walk to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.

The evening is as expected... an entertainment evening of Ceroc... a style of dance. I believe this is, in the main, for the benefit of the permanent XE staff at Namche, rather than the trekkers. Our group would have been content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed, but there was a strong push to be participative and to try out some of the dance moves.

I don't know whether the permanent staff picked up on this, but I think our Sirdar and porters seem quite embarrassed by the whole thing too. I wonder whether this 'semi-erotic' dancing is acceptable to the Nepalis and may not even be appropriate culturally.

Mike and I leave for our beds around 2100hrs and although we were encouraged to stay the course, we exercised our right to leave. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.

So to bed... and up early tomorrow. 0500hrs to watch sun up on Everest... then testing at 0600hrs, with breakfast at 0630hrs... away by 0700hrs.

Goodnight.

Saturday 28 April 2007

Namche to Tengboche and beyond [Day 17]

Meeting up with Trek D

I wake at 0425hrs after having gone to bed at 2000hrs, excited at the prospect of trekking up to meet my team. I think about buying some Mars Bars as a treat for them, but decide against this because of the heat.

My thoughts wander back to home, to my wife and family, where I will get back to normality... to get back on my computer, view my photos, to check my finances, to continue work on the cottage, to write up this diary on my blog site and plan my trip to Snowdon with my son. So many good positive things to look forward to. But for now I need to pack my rucksack and get on the trail straight after breakfast.

I arrive downstairs much earlier than necessary and mix with the Sirdar and porters of Trek G. The Sirdar is a really experienced climber and has organised climbs for Alan Hinks no less. One of his porters (Husan Sunawar) exchanges email addresses so we can keep in touch once I return to the UK - a nice touch.

I have my normal diet of porridge, omelette on toast and lemon tea for breakfast and finish before Trek G come in, as they have been completing their morning testing. I nipd back up to my room, pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, waterproofs, medical kit and extra layers... fill my water bottle, use the loo and then leaving a note on my holdall of my route, plans and timings, lock the room and pocket the key.

I don my sack and leave the lodge, around the crashed helicopter, up the steps, through the arch and onto the sandy trail. I greet some of the locals as I head through the narrow paths and then I am out onto the open hillside looking down into Namche.

I set out at a good pace and it is great being on my own again. As I walk, I find that many of the porters carrying loads stop and chat to me... much more so because I am on my own, rather than in a large group. The locals carry huge loads up the mountain.

Ideal resting place

Lovely walk through the forest

This is the main highway to get goods up the trekking trail in support of the climbing industry. Of course helicopters can be used, but it is not really cost effective, except for very wealthy expeditionary. I see children perhaps as young as twelve carrying massive loads and some of the sights defy explanation, but I'll try.

I see one porter carrying four sheets of thick ply - each sheet 6' x 3' x 0.5". The weight must be immense. I would have difficulty lifting just one sheet of this... and yet here he is with this load roped up and suspended by a band around his forehead. I can see his tendons and muscles straining as he walks... in flip flops... heading for Tengboche and beyond. The weight must have been well in excess of 60kg... astonishing.

I continue to romp along, the route and places by now very familiar. I take a few more photos of Everest and particularly of Ama Dablam, and soon arrive at the base of the climb up to Tengboche. I have a rest at the bottom near the river, use the loo, refuel with a Mars Bar and half a litre of water and then start the climb.

It is really hot and only mid-morning. The path snakes its way, ever upwards, the dust dry and coating my boots. I keep resting in the shade and taking on more liquid, as I am leaking no end.

The porters rest constantly at little scheduled stops created in the stone walls - they have to with the loads they are carrying. It is all I can do to keep going uphill, placing one leg after another. The paths are so steep and rocky... and all I am carrying is a measly rucksack.

I come across a porter who has a towering basket, full of crates of San Miguel beer, with boxes of confectionery beneath, toiling upward ever so slowly, his brow furrowed with the weight and strain of carrying. Another has a carcass of some meat or other, open to the elements, with flies buzzing around in the heat... that's how the meat in the dishes arrives at the lodges higher up the mountain.

With great relief I finally top out at Tengboche - it is just 1045hrs. I set out from Namche at 0745hrs!

Nice to stop and chat

I am still feeling very strong and the weather is excellent, so I decide to push on through Deboche to head up to Pangboche. I know this permission has not been granted to me, but I reason that Trek D will be descending down this trail, so will bump into me... or me into them sooner or later.

This section of the trail is delightful... much of it through colourful rhododendron forests, high above the Dudh Kosi.

Rhododendron trail

Just after Deboche, I meet one of the Trek D porters who recognises me instantly and comes over to give me a hug. He seem genuinely pleased to see me, and me him... and it makes me feel a million dollars. Chatting, he said the team were about an hour away... so this gives me some idea of their position coming down from Dingboche.

I head over the unusual bridge below Pangboche (this is not a hawser suspension bridge like most, but is constructed out of scaffolding tube... and as such looks out of place) and head ever onwards. I arrive at the welcome archway just before the junction of trails for Upper and Lower Pangboche and stop for a rest with some other porters who are also having a break.

I offer them some of my biscuits and soon the whole packet has been devoured. The porters seem to find my rucksack quite humorous, as I have my solar panel strapped to the outside and my GPS fastened to the side. I'm sure this causes them great amusement, as they trek up to the higher reaches of the mountain with nothing more than flip flops, trousers, shirt and jacket.

Unsure as to which Pangboche route Trek D were descending by, I decide to wait on an outcrop of rock, high above the valley, looking right up at one of my favourite peaks, Ama Dablam.

Ama Dablam means 'mother’s necklace' because the long ridges on each side of the mountain are like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.

Waiting for Trek D to arrive

Ama Dablam

It is a wonderful spot and the sun is beating down, so I remove my rucksack and settle down to wait for Trek D to arrive. I hear, rather than see, the Yak transport coming down. The clanking bells signalling a warning to all on the trail. Before long, the blue Jagged Globe bags come into view.

I go to speak with our yak herder who grins in recognition and she indicates the group are only about a half hour away. A few false alarms... and then I recognise Deborah's (Trek Leader) yellow rucksack bobbing down the hill.

I shout up: 'Are you missing a trekker somewhere along the trail?' and bound up to meet them. With many hugs and handshakes, I am back in the womb of my team again, although two (Dennis and Nadia) haved left the group earlier to do an extension to their holiday.

Mike comes over to greet me... it is great to have his company again. We walk back to Tengboche chatting and catching up on the news, with me asking about their experience at EBC. I also have to fill them in about what has happened to me since being left at Pheriche.

Many have had an uncomfortable time at EBC and whilst they would not have wished to have missed it, wouldn't want to repeat the experience. I don't think they are saying this just for my benefit... as I remember looking at Trek C after they had arrived at Dingboche and thinking how drained they looked. Trek D have a similar gaunt look.

Just as we are climbing the hill out of Deboche, I am at the front talking to Llakpa (our Sirdar) when three horses come thundering around the corner of the trail, in a cacophony of bells. One horse has his leg caught up in a saddle that has slipped. We only just manage to leap out of the way before they crash into the trees near a precipice, where they manage to regain the trail and continue ever downwards.

We shout warnings to the rest of the trekkers below, hoping that no one is in the way. Shortly afterwards, a breathless monk comes into view looking quite fraught. We point him in the right direction... and laughing said the horses would probably be at EBC by now. He set off again running downhill after his wayward mounts.

Arriving back at Tengboche for the fourth time (for me)... it is incredible how a place suddenly becomes very familiar, even though one has spent so little time there in total. Mike is billeted with me and after dumping our bags, I ask him if he would like to walk up the prayer flag ridge.

Mike offers to say some words in prayer with me, but having previously left my scarf tied to a bush with a little prayer for the health and happiness of my family, I kindly declined... but what a nice gesture.

A fitting touch to the end of an excellent day.

Prayer flag ridge at Tengboche

Friday 27 April 2007

Namche [Day 16]

Freedom

I have another great night sleep - from about 2045hrs right through to 0530hrs. I have a good wash, but then struggle as to what to put on. The majority of my stuff is filthy and smelly. I might enquire how much the laundry costs and how long it takes. I intend to walk into Namche today, have a good sort out of my holdall and perhaps have a shave and shower. Otherwise I'll just chill out.

I shall need to make sure I have everything packed and ready for my trek up to Tengboche tomorrow. I hope it all fits in my 35 litre sack. A breakfast of porridge, omelette on toast, a hot chocolate and hot lemon - yum. It is great to have my appetite back.

I wander down the hill into Namche - visit a number of shops and buy a scarf to keep the sun off my neck tomorrow... and a couple of mini karabiners, one for a safety loop on my camera bag and the other to fasten my water bottle to my rucksack.

Exploring the village, I manage to get a great photo of a little child peeking out of a doorway at me. There was no-one to ask if I could snap the picture (as I would normally do), so I just clicked the shutter. It is quite cool this morning, but the temperature is just starting to rise... it is 1015hrs. I am looking forward to my planned walk tomorrow. I must remember to take my room key with me so that the porters don't mistakenly take my holdall as one of Trek G's.

Inquisitive child

Entrance to Namche

Wash time

Returning to the lodge I ask for a bowl of hot water to shave off my beard. It takes two shaves to clear all the growth and I feel human again - bliss. Sitting here writing my diary, the flies are buzzing in through the window attracted by the soiled toilet tissue in the bin beside the loo. I have denied them access by shutting the door of the en-suite - damned annoying things. I decide to go outside and sit at the front of the lodge in the sun to read my book, but the wind is really quite cold and it soon has me scurrying inside again.

To keep myself mobile for tomorrow I decide to walk a way up the trail to the Norgay Tenzing Chorten. This is located in a fantastic spot with a clear view right up to the Everest range. Looking the other way one can see right down the valley towards Lukla. Magnificent. Some idiot has tried to deface the commemorative plate - goodness knows why.

Route to Tenzing Norgay Chorten

Great view of the Everest range

I manage to speak to a couple more people from Trek G today. I tell them about my walk to Thamo and how delightful it was. Some choose to follow my route and go out on an acclimatisation walk. On their return they seek me out to thank me as they had really enjoyed the trip.

I have a couple of games of pool by myself - and bored, wander back into Namche again to take yet more photos of village life in Nepal. I buy another litre of water and manage to buy a Mars Bar too. On the walk back up to the lodge, I decide to call at an internet café to send my final email to my wife before returning to Kathmandu. This one has a fast satellite link, yet was still cheaper than the connection at the lodge. I wish I had known about this before!

I am now sitting in the dining room drinking hot chocolate and eating two ginger biscuits writing my diary - not bad eh. Two chaps opposite from me (Trek G), have brought out two mini radio-controlled helicopters. The intention is to fly them at each acclimatisation stop and see what the effects of altitude are on lift. The machines buzzed around the ceiling before crashing into each other and spiralling to the floor. What a laugh.

The young Nepali woman serving afternoon drinks sees me sitting alone and brings me a handful of her cashew nuts to shell and eat. What a nice gesture - even though they don't have a lot, they are still prepared to share their meagre possessions. A lovely, lovely people, the Nepalis. After dinner, I am quite tired and decide to go to bed at 2000hrs.

Thursday 26 April 2007

Namche to Thamo and return [Day 15]

Trek C depart

I wake early with Trek C. The dormitory comes alive at 0530hrs with the usual type of lads banter. My bag was lovely and warm and it was tempting to stay put, but I really wanted to say 'goodbye' to the team who had welcomed me so openly. The 'dorm' will feel strangely empty when they depart.

Yaks loaded and ready

Farewell to Trek C

I go outside to say my goodbyes to Trek C - my surrogate family for the last few days. I mingle with them chatting... we shake hands, hug, take the obligatory group photo and go our separate ways.

The yaks and their loads saunter off up the steps and through the arch. Trek C wander off too, waving their trek poles in return of the many waves from the few that are staying behind.

Peace returns to the lodge  and I am all alone again amongst the remnants of unfamiliar trekking groups. It is a good job I am quite independent and sure of my own company, otherwise it would be a very lonely experience.

Well, let's get sorted for today. I must go and get breakfast... then have a wash. I better see what my accommodation arrangements are as well. I'm sure they won't want me in the large dorm on my own, which is a shame as it is a nice airy room.

I feel a more positive attitude emerging to offset my previous disappointment. In fact, I am really looking forward to doing some exploring on my own. The highlight will be rejoining my Trek D colleagues... but I am also looking forward to trekking over to Thamo.

I am allocated Room 106 for the rest of my stay. I move my stuff from the dormitory and settle down to sort everything out for the day. This room overlooks the front of the lodge and has an en-suite sit down loo. Luxury!

I wander downstairs to set off for Thamo (3,493 metres).

Walk to Thamo

Climb out of Namche

Quarry above Namche
Trail from the quarry

It is a wonderful morning and I take a different route over the ridge to the quarry. By following the contours, I manage to locate a trail I recognise from our acclimatisation walk and drop down through the rhododendron forest, which is festooned with flowers. Beautiful.

A tiny wren-like bird follows me from bush to bush as I whistle similar sounds to his call - he is only a couple of feet away, peering at me from behind the foliage.

Exotic mani stone

Sagarmatha National Park

Heading for the Chorten in the distance

Down to the river

River crossing

The noise of the river gets louder and louder as I descend to the valley floor. The three logs across the milky white gush of water able to be navigated with ease. On the opposite bank, a burnt patch of earth is evidence of where the porters stop for rest, as we had seen on our acclimatisation walk with Trek D. It seems many days ago now.

I soon pass the teashop where we originally turned around and continue up the hill on new ground. I remember how, if we upped the pace just ever so slightly, we would end up panting and out of breath in no time. No such problem now as I romp up the steep path - just shows how one acclimatises to ones surroundings. I feel in absolutely A1 condition... and fitter than I have done for ages.

Arriving at the top of the rise, I turn the corner to see a great scar in the landscape where the river has carved its way into the mountain. A wide expanse of rock where the river has split into many routes, finding its own way down the valley, to merge into one again at the bottom. I look further ahead up the mountain... and there nestled in the hillside is Thamo.

Thamo - nestling in the hillside

It seems so close and yet I discover it takes another half-hour before I walk up the path into the village. I pass a tiny hydro-power station built by the Austrian Government, the waterfalls from the hillside being swallowed into the turbines. Prayer flags bedeck the trees as the water tinkles and sparkles in the sunlight. I stand there for a good five minutes mesmerised.

Mani stones and prayers

Austrian NGO-funded hydro-power project

No competition - just stand aside and let them through

Delightful village

Wandering up between the little houses, I greet the locals with the usual 'Namaste' (meaning 'I salute the divine within you', but is used as both Hello and Goodbye). I take care to approach the mani stones and Chortens in the right way, going around them on the left side to ensure the prayers are sent up the mountain correctly. A basic respect for another culture.

The village is a riot of colour, not only from the prayer flags, but the different coloured roofs of the huts and lodges. Trying to locate the Nunnery, I glance higher up the mountain. Often these buildings are at the top of the village in the highest vantage point and I locate what seems to be a likely candidate. I make a beeline for it and in the event have to wind my way up a path between bleached white stone walls. Steep steps lead me to a wooden gate and a sign indicating the Khari Nunnery.

Khari Nunnery

A new prayer hall under construction

I put my jacket on to respectfully cover my arms and enter the complex. I pass what seems to be a building under construction and am met by a shaven-headed Tibetan lady in purple floor length robes. She beckons me down some steps towards the sound of chanting. I discover numerous discarded pairs of sandals, flip flops and shoes and sit down to remove my own footwear. Although I am only a UK size 7, my boots look massive in comparison.

Approaching a decorated curtain over a hidden doorway, the chanting gets louder - pulling this to one side reveals a brightly decorated prayer hall, with 20/25 robed nuns sitting cross-legged, chanting mantras, ringing bells and clashing cymbals. I am offered a seat on the floor at the head of the service. A prayer mat is brought for me and I adopt the same cross-legged posture as the nuns, so as not to offend by showing the soles of my feet. I am given a cup of yak tea, which I sip quietly... this has quite a sour taste, but isn't unpleasant.

Listening with my eyes closed for some of the time, I feel very relaxed. The rhythm of the mantras become soporific... really quite calming. I somehow feel at peace and 'right' with the world.

I have a good look around at what the nuns were doing. Each have a part to play in the service, either by blowing into a conch shell, or ringing a bell, or starting up a mantra. At times they rest and sip their own tea... and then start up again.

Not knowing how long the service is to last, I finish my tea, place a 200NR donation in the collection box, bow my head with my hands together, utter 'Namaste', rise gently and leave through the curtain. I put my boots back on and depart feeling enlightened.

Lower down the hill towards the village, I stop at a little stall to buy a ringing bowl as a memory of my remarkable trip to the nunnery - 700NR, less than £7. I am now sitting in the courtyard of a local shop writing up my diary, having purchased a litre of water and a Mars bar for my return journey.

The owner seems fascinated by my writing... and a cow has just wandered down the path and is leaning over the low wall behind me, watching me drink from my water bottle.

I walk back through the village and set off along the trail at a good pace. I am feeling extremely strong and romp along. As I go over the log bridge for the second time today, I take an alternative path back to Namche, much higher on the mountainside. This seems to be newly-constructed and the flora and fauna are fantastic. Tiny ice-blue mountain Iris are dotted around in flower - beautiful. I take a couple of photos on self-timer to remind myself of the wonderful day I have experienced... at one point nearly tripping in my rush to get into position.

Heading out of the village again

Back at the river crossing - no yaks this time

Alternative path back to Namche

Farmstead above Namche
Flora

and fauna

Namche again

I arrive back in Namche at 1530hrs and end up chatting to another Brit who is trekking to Everest Base Camp on his own. He had taken the wrong turning and ended up in Thamo (completely the wrong valley).

I therefore point him in the right direction, advising that it is about a three-hour walk to Tengboche, with a hard climb at the end. I suggested he might get a lodge lower down and tackle the climb in the morning, particularly in view of his lengthy diversion today. I don't know whether he heeds my advice but off he trots on the correct route at last.

I have a quick check of the cash in my wallet: 300NR (about £3); 110 US$ (about £55) and 60 UK£. This should be enough to last me for the remainder of the trek.

Medical Lab at Namche

I report to the Med Centre to say I am back safe from my trip to Thamo. I chat with the duty doctor and explain how well I am feeling. As a result, my request to walk up to meet Trek D is granted, but it is conditional on accompanying Trek G, who will be leaving for Deboche the same day.

Unfortunately, I have not really bonded with the members of Trek G, so don't really want to be 'shackled' to them. I will therefore see if the Trek G leader approaches me to make arrangements. If he doesn't, I will set off in advance of the group, knowing that if anything untoward happens en-route, I can just sit it out and wait to be 'swept up'.

I return to my room where I start to plan for the walk to meet up with Trek D. It will be necessary to leave my main holdall in Room 106 whilst I head off up the trail... but will still need a certain amount of kit to cover all eventualities.

I will pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, med kit and put in some extra layers and waterproofs just in case I am caught out with the weather. It normally starts quite cool and then quickly heats up, if previous days are anything to go by. With the steep climb to Tengboche, I will be sweating buckets, so must take enough fluids with me. There is no hurry though to get it all sorted, as I still have one spare day to do all my admin, so decide to leave it for tomorrow.

I bump into another doctor on the permanent staff (Goli) - she invites me to a viewing of 'Everest' the Imax movie after tea. In the event, the film shows promise, but the DVD keeps skipping, then there is a power cut. Furthermore, only Trek G were in attendance and I find myself having to explain who I am and why I am in Namche when my own group (Trek D) are much further up the trail, so decide to return to the saloon for a bedtime drink.

Dr Jo notices me sitting on my own drinking my hot chocolate, and takes the opportunity to sidle over. She has my Med Reports on the USB drive and passes them back to me. This now incorporates a report for Deborah (my Trek D Leader), with other copies for the Kathmandu Med Centre and my own Practitioner.

I retire to bed and read my Med Reports - no surprises there.